down under: Heather-Dawn scuba-dives in the waters off Saut d'Eau Island.

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Adventure dive at Saut d'Eau Island

We did plan for an adventure dive in Trinidad waters and really looked forward to this trip.

The waters around Saut d'Eau Island are known as the richest fishing grounds along the north coast. Pirogues from as far east as Matelot and as far west as Carenage come here to harvest the bounty of these waters.

Resident birds on the island, too, thrive on the colonies of fish that teem here. It is no wonder that populations of pelicans, frigate birds, turns, noddies and swifts always seem to be about the business of procuring a catch.

This is the reason why the reef that surrounds the island always attracts divers. It is the most popular dive site along the north coast because of the rich diversity present here.

When the pirogue rounded the point of the first Boca into the Caribbean Sea, we found that the waters had changed from calm to slightly choppy. It was usual for these parts to be a bit rougher than the Gulf but now a stiff wind was coming out of the north-east that pushed waves before it.

Though brilliant sunshine bathed the waters, there was the threat of a darkening sky eastward. A dozen pelicans just sat on the surface of the water riding each watery mountain oblivious to the changing tides.

Several pirogues were already stationed on the west, south and east sides of Saut d'Eau Island, some fisherfolk already hauling in sizeable catches. We stopped at the mouth of a small inlet that led into a cave on the southern side of the island and completed preparations for our submergence here. Rolling off the side of the pirogue into the water was the start of our adventure in the waters around Saut d'Eau.

Three of us ventured into a 'channel' that created a huge indentation in the rocky base of the island. Fish seemed to play hide and seek here, some withdrawing into hiding places upon our approach while others just went about their business oblivious to our presence. A lobster eyed us warily from under a small overhang.

Back into the mainstream, we headed towards the eastern end of the island, passing through a plethora of parrot fish that showcased multicoloured hues of the sunlit blue waters encapsulating the reef. Angel fish darted in and out of reefal formations. They were indeed little darlings, the darlings of these marine depths.

We discovered that tiny fish were not the only inhabitants of these parts. A stingray undulated past, almost brushing against one of our crew.

We were going against a heavy drift now that did not seem to affect these large species. A large grouper just lounged in the strong pull while we flippered past. Eventually the pull became so strong even at 20 metres (65 feet), that we were forced to abort this part of the dive. The waters were no longer sparkling blue but a mysterious darker hue.

We surfaced to find that the rains and wind were kicking up a storm, pushing huge waves westward. It was a challenge to take off our equipment in the face of all that. To me personally, I preferred the more stable conditions of the deep despite the strong pull we had encountered there. This tossing was a bit too much up here. Those in the pirogue were only too happy to help us aboard and go to the more sheltered bay of Saut d'Eau nearby.

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